Nor is the man who put his name to this beast. Lord Thomas Alexander. Fermor-Hesketh, an eccentric aristocrat with a passion for things fast and mechanical, ploughed his hefty inheritance into designing and building the V1000 in the early Eighties. A more British venture you’d be hard pushed to find.

Hesketh, and the press, built the 511000 up as the bike that would save the British motorcycle industry. Sadly it was destined to fail.

David rocks the Hesketh off its main stand, turns both fuel taps to on (it uses one for each cylinder), feeds in a touch of choke and fires the 992cc V-twin into life. Oh, what a sound. The flat rhythmic booms from the Hesketh’s pipes sound like two Brit singles competing for attention. It’s an extraordinary exhaust note and quite unlike an Italian V-twin.

As I lean forward to the bars, the seat’s so wide it splays my legs, losing me two inches in height, so reaching the floor is harder than it would normally be. For anyone smaller it’d be a struggle.

One advantage for someone 6ft-plus is long- distance comfort. Once settled in, I feel as though I could sit there all day. Some owners do, covering huge mileages in one hit. That’s the Hesketh’s true

forte. It’s a grand tourer; the two-wheeled equivalent of a Jag, without the walnut dash and leather trim. When riding a Hesketh, planning ahead is essential. Its no good tramping along in the hope that you’ll be able to react to bends, roundabouts and other obstacles in your path. This is not a bike that executes split-second decisions.

So I make it my mission to seek out its favored territory: smooth, winding A-roads. It’s not long before we find our quarry. Time to stretch the V1000’s legs.

I steal a glance at the speedometer. We’re doing 80mph — very comfortably it must be said — at 4200rpm. As I wind on the throttle, in top, the speedo flashes its way past a ton.

Given enough road she might show 120mph, but I don’t want to rely on the Brembo brakes. They lack power and feel and are simply not up to stopping a bike of this size. New pads, lines and fluid would improve things.

One thing that doesn’t need improving is the ride quality. It’s excellent. Top quality Marzocchi suspension shields the rider from jolts and shakes that might otherwise be brought on by bumps and undulations in the road. Stability, too, is superb.

Away from the fluid rhythm of the A-road the Hesketh requires more input. For every mile of road, we’re faced with at least three bends. The bike’s 19in front wheel and lengthy wheelbase accentuate the heavy steering. And under steer is my unwelcome companion as I exit every corner. The bike’s out of its comfort zone and it’s letting me know.

When the V1000 was launched its notch gearbox was criticized, but as I snick another ratio on David’s bike I wonder what all the fuss was about. Five hours in and I haven’t missed a gear.

Heskeths have long been misunderstood. Sure they had their foibles when launched, but a fully- sorted example, like this, is a different proposition altogether. It doesn’t burn any oil, leak any fluid or crunch any gears. And it’s a pleasure to ride.

Hesketh’s intention was to build a high quality British bike. This sorted example at last lives up to that ideal. And that, given the marque’s troubled past, is a very big deal indeed.

1. Re-check that all nuts and boils are tight, especially wheel spindie nuts.

1. Check that all earth connections are tight.

1. Check that you have sufficient fuel, that-it is getting to the carburetors but that it isn’t leaking from any unions.

1. Test carburetor action to make sure the slides fully close with the throttle shut and the handlebars in any position.

1. Check all oil levels.

1. Test brake action and adjustment.

1. Check tyre pressures.

1. Check chain tension and spring clip security.

1. Wheel the machine to make sure nothing is rubbing or binding.

1. Turn bars from lock to lock to make sure no cables snag or become tight.

1. Make sure all electrical components are working properly.

1. Pack tools so you can adjust the breaks and carburetor(s) if necessary during the shakedown run.

1. Take a mobile phone, failure to do so will guarantee that you’ll need it.

1. Following your inaugural test ride, go over the machine and check nuts and bolts for tightness and look for any leaks.

1. On return, treat yourself to a beer and start planning the bike’s first big trip.

What it is:

Kawasaki’s immortal Z1 engine, bored-out, in a variety of tweaked and restyled guises. Early models were slower than the 900s; later examples were faster. Not as desirable as a Z1/900, but benefits from a much improved chassis and brakes. Far, far cheaper too.

Others in its family tree:

Original Z1/900. The MKII Z1000 was slab-sided, pokier and available with chain or shaft drive. Z1-R was the sporty off-shoot. J models were designed for proddie racing, but can be unreliable. Several hideous custom/cruiser variants saw the light of day too.

It’s good because:

Unrivalled pedigree, still commands respect, incredibly strong, excellent parts back-up.

It’s bad because:

Z purists sneer and ask why you didn’t buy a Z1.

Other Alternatives:

Absolutely nothing else has the Big Zed’s reputation, but a Suzuki GS-1000 is actually a better bike

What it is:

Sporty Z1000 with more power, slab-sided styling, bikini fairing and four-into-one exhaust. Never that popular because of its distinctive looks and tiny fuel tank (bigger 3.5 gallon option appeared on later models). Handles little better than a stock Z1000.

Others in its family tree:

Essentially every Z-prefixed four-cylinder Kawasaki. The maddest and baldest of them all was the semi-official turbo­charged Z1-R. Made and sold in the US only, it made a claimed 145bhp, whistled past 150mph with ease and handled like a hinge. Bonkers.

It’s good because:

It looks good – really good – and it’s a Big Z, of course.

It’s bad because:

The front brakes are abysmal (there’s a cable link from brake lever to master cylinder!).

Other Alternatives:

Z1000/1100R Eddie Lawson Replica teas Kawasaki’s subsequent attempt at the same thing. Much better in every department.

The bike’s builder, Norton specialist Mick Hemmings, tickled the MK1 Concentrics, switched on the ignition, and with the machine on the main stand gave it a measured forceful swing. Result? Silence.

For the second attempt Mick depressed the kick start lever close to horizontal before starting his swing. He reckons that this technique reduces the possibility of kickback. But there was still no hint of cooperation from the engine.

A third swing. RUMBAAAAaaa! The mighty parallel twin burst into life with that snarling, powerful soul-stirring blast that peashooter ’silenced’ Commandos emit, rattling the workshop windows and  provoking a satisfied grin from Mick. It sounded as healthy and as powerful as any road-going British twin can.

A few days later, and with the bike now in possession of a MoT certificate, I was back at the Hemmings’ workshop for the eagerly awaited road test. Mick had ridden the bike across town to get the MoT, but to be its first run on the open road.

The Commando was wheeled out of the workshop, the carburetors tickled, and  this time it fired first kick under Hemmings‘ right leg. Impressive.

The sound of the Norton brought building workers out of nearby site doorways to savour the noise and watch Mick make some adjustments to improve the idle.

The sun was shining and I was looking forward to a relatively restrained ride at running-in speeds on some of my favorite Northampton shire back roads.

Fortunately Mick had other ideas. “Don’t be afraid to give it a decent thrashing,” he confidently grinned as I climbed aboard. With the prospect of a pleasant dawdle turning into a full blooded burn-up I wasn’t about to argue with him.

Wide and handsome thanks to its western- style bars, this example isn’t too high because

it’s fitted with a cut down seat that was originally used on a production race bike. The low seat height suited me and I was able to settle in fairly quickly to deal with Northampton town traffic.

The diaphragm spring clutch gives a relatively light and smooth action — a real improvement over previous Norton twins — and the gearbox changed faultlessly. It felt like a new bike, which in effect it is.

Out on the open road the true benefit of the Commando with its rubber-cushioned engine was apparent. Vibration all but isolated thanks to the Isolastic mountings, the Commando could be cruised at any sensible speed in comfort.

I soon discovered that Mick’s confidence in the freshly built motor was well founded. The engine was willing to rev and it gave no hint of protest. Obviously I wouldn’t ride a new engine flat out, and there were no plans for speed testing. But this was an opportunity to sample the torque and power of the vertical twin without revving it too hard.

At high cruising speeds the wide bars are hard work. And at speed Commandos have a tendency to feel slightly light at the front with a disposition to oscillate at the steering head. This bike was no exception, despite it being on modern Avon tyres.

The buyer of this machine has specified an 18in rear rim rather than the standard 19M item to allow a wider tyre choice. Mick argues that steering is best with 19in rims sharpness; the modern rubber does give confidence in corners and under braking. Because the Commando has real presence and because it makes such a glorious noise, you find yourself getting rather carried away. But with those wide bars it becomes wearing pulling against the wind and you eventually find yourself easing back… until you get bored that is, and off you go with another burst of speed! The customer has asked for lower bars to be fitted, and various other detail changes, before he takes delivery.

Ninety miles later I was back at flick’s Northampton workshop. “How was it?” he inquired, raising an amused eyebrow when told that I’d seen 100mph on the clock. Perhaps he hadn’t expected me to take his running in advice quite so literally.

Many of us regard the Norton Commando as the most practical of the classic British vertical twins for modern traffic conditions and distance riding. And this scratch-built conglomeration of components confirms the Commando’s status as such.

Any niggles? Well, the dumpy grips are not to my taste. I also found throttle action rather gritty, the rear brake weak, and the front twin leading shoe Tickle brake good on first application but prone to fade.

But overall this 1970 Roadster is a fine machine and proof that a bike that is carefully built from parts can end up as a fantastically integrated machine.

What it is:

The original superbike. Smooth, fast and refined, the 750 Four elevated biking to a higher plain. Its arrival in the UK in 1969 signaled the beginning of the end of the old British bike industry.

Others in its family tree:

The 750 spawned a whole family of inline fours: 400, 550, 900 and 1100. There was even a bizarre two-speed auto CB750. Aimed primarily at the US market, it was a poor seller in the UK.

It’s good because:

It turns heads, plus it’s reliable and relatively cheap to buy and run. Spares are easy to come by too.

It’s bad because:

Looks better than it rides (a Z1’s got more oomph) and prices are getting steep.

Other Alternatives:

Honda’s own CB550 is nearly as fast in a straight line, plus it handles and stops far better. Kawasaki Z650 is better at everything and is almost as desirable.

The bike’s male-slider fork is well damped and has seven- way adjustments for rebound and compression damping, and the rear dual shocks offer five-way spring preload adjustment. On smooth terrain and riding over small road imperfections the suspension feels compliant, especially the front end with its superior fork. Bumps are very noticeable in back, though, where the short shock travel jars the rider. I noticed a slight pogo effect when going over potholes; something other testers did not experience, possibly because of their heavier weight.

The belt-driven Cruise is outfitted with Bridgestone Battlax radials, a 120/70 ZR-18 front and 180/55 ZR-17 rear, which provide stability and good grip even in light rain. Some weight savings come from the hollow-cast aluminum wheels. When you get to twisty roads the Cruise is planted and stable, both in long sweepers and tight corners. It has good low-end torque and there’s no throttle abruptness when you get on it coming out of a corner. It holds a line well, and if it weren’t for the limited cornering clearance the Cruise could keep up with some sportbikes in the twisties. UM refers to the Cruise as a power or sport cruiser, and once you ride it you can relate.

The seat is not only low at 27.75 inches, it’s also narrower than the average cruiser’s seat, which should thrill riders with short inseams. With my 34-inch inseam, when the Cruise is parked on its sidestand I can walk up to the bike and literally step right over it and keep on walking. The long wheelbase of 65.4 inches makes it feel like a larger motorcycle when you climb aboard, and the reach to the handlebar is a stretch and the footpegs place your feet way out in front. But check this out: The footpegs are dealer adjustable (the shift rod needs to be changed) to one of two positions, and can be moved back approximately 2 inches from what you see pictured. The seat is comfortable enough that your butt will outlast your upper body and arms at highway speeds. As is typical on a cruiser, windblast hits the rider in the chest so you need to hang tightly to those handgrips at speed. We found that cruising below 75 mph was the best way to ride longer distances in comfort. (There’s also a touring version available with a National Cycle windscreen, three-piece Saddlemen detachable synthetic saddlebags, a backrest, a luggage rack, engine guards and floorboards.)

The Cruise gleams in the sunlight with its combination of chromed metal and plastic. Mirrors provide a good rear view, and though the triple disc brakes are not up to sportbike standards, they’re fine for cruising at more moderate speeds and we didn’t experience any fading or grabbing. The tank pivots up for easier engine service, and you’ll need a large Phillip’s screwdriver to remove the single bolt that holds down the one-piece seat. Our test bike did not come with a toolkit.

Our only complaint is with the Nintendo Game Boy-like LED digi­tal instrument panel that’s some­times hard to read in sunlight. The fuel gauge seems to have a mind of its own, as it takes anywhere from 2-5 miles after a fill-up before the bar graph registers full, and then it jumps around, so we rely on the tripmeter to figure out when to gas up. The Cruise does gets excellent average fuel economy at 45.7 mpg. The speedometer has a delayed reaction as well, though curiously that seems to be correcting itself—as is the light backfiring when coming off the throttle at highway speeds—as we put on more miles.

We can’t offer any assurances as to how the Cruise will hold up for the long haul; we can report that we’ve put almost 1,000 trouble-free miles on our test bike, and we’re impressed with its handling and rider friendli­ness. Probably the biggest challenge UM faces is convincing those who are skeptical about investing in a relatively unknown product that it’s reliable, so the company has tossed in a three-year, 15,000-mile transferable warranty. The $6,399 price tag makes it competitively priced as well. Note: The Cruise tested here is a 2007 model; for 2008 the only change will be color choices: silver, black or bur­gundy. Our test unit came with a Hyosung instrument cover; apparently, late-2007 models have a new one made by UM.

We tested the Carbtune Pro on several carbureted and fuel-injected motorcycles and found it worked flawlessly. The actual sync procedure is something 99 percent of motorcycle owners can easily handle, at least after the first experience. The EPA has made fuel mixtures on modern sys­tems difficult to manually manipulate; most of the screws you see are for removal, synching or idle adjustment.

Accessing the vacuum connections on our Suzuki V-Strom required removing bodywork. First synch took an hour, with most of the time for plastic R&R. Leaving vacuum hoses connected (tie-wrap and plug the ends) should reduce the next session to about 15 minutes. Morgan’s website contains links for specific sync procedures for many motorcycles. Note that the ‘Tune Pro won’t work on six- cylinder Honda Gold Wings.

The Carbtune Pro is available in two- and four-column versions. The quad offers the greatest flexibility. Morgan also offers a variety of fuel-system-related tools and accessories via its website and dealer network.

Morgan Carbtune Ltd. is located in Belfast, Northern Ireland, but don’t let the distance deter you. We ordered direct from Sean Morgan and received the ‘Tune Pro within a week, at a bargain shipping rate of about $6. The current exchange rate has increased prices of all European products, but considering that the cost of a couple of shop synching sessions pays for this $87-$112 instrument, it seems a worthwhile investment in the quest for mechanical smoothness.

Born in                                  : 1980

Current Machine              : Yamaha

I’m not especially into old bikes, it just love riding bikes – any bikes. I started watching racing in ‘94, so this is a bit early for me.

I was just an itch in my dad’s underpants when this was being raced. He was a bit of a Kenny Roberts fan. He’s been ringing me all weekend asking what the bikes like.

You’ve got to ride it like a 125 motocross bike. You have to be really committed and ride it near the limit the whole time or it just doesn’t want to know. Obviously, that’s quite hard when you’ve had so little time on the bike. Fortunately this is a left foot change with a race pattern, like on my bike, so I didn’t have to worry about a right foot shift.

Ii only makes power when you open it up. The brakes don’t work and it doesn’t handle in the way that our bikes do now. With what they rode then I don’t understand how they got the lap times. This has a really low center of gravity and a light front end; it’s just the total opposite of what we have now.

Kenny is a legend. I spoke to him about the bike at the GP last weekend. He said I’d enjoy it, but he told me to make sure I looked after it. He’ll be glad we kept it in one piece.

Like the first Scout, there are two big exterior pockets that run parallel to the main zipper (which has two tracks so you can close the jacket tightly or a bit looser if you want). These pockets house the Cargo Storage System, and when you zip down the inside perimeter of either pocket you reveal perforated leather for ventilation (the air comes in here and exits out vents in the rear).

This Torso Vent System moves a lot of air quite effectively. Hook-and-loop next to these vents keeps the big pockets closed securely until you want to rip into them. The Cargo Storage System has all kinds of pockets on both sides, and the right side has an elastic lanyard for keys or whatever. There are handwarmer pockets and an interior pocket as well.

Another cool ventilation feature is actually an improvement over the original Scout’s “airscoop” sleeve vents, which were found at the wrists and couldn’t be used if you wore gauntlet gloves. The new Scout has some mesh in the split front sleeve, which you can open for ventilation in hot weather thanks to two-way zippers. For cold weather there’s a snap-in, full-length Thermoliner with a Thermoneck neck warmer (that stores in the liner when not in use). The body of the jacket is 1.2-1.3mm Kwik­Dry water-resistant leather with Powerstretch leather panels for freedom of move­ment, double stitching in key areas and reflective piping in front and back. CE- approved armor is found in the elbows and shoulders, and an optional Temperfoam back pad slides into a zippered internal sleeve.

Fit, ventilation, protection and storage versatility in the Series IV are either equal or superior to my 10-year-old Scout, and the new version has a 10-year warranty.

What it is?

Honda’s first 16-valve four, developed alongside a 750cc version. Its long-stroke engine has plenty of punch, it handles, and even the brakes and suspension are half decent. Nearly as fast as the CBX-6 too. Later models got twin-piston calipers, rubber engine mounts and a fairing.

Others in its family tree : Developed from the ROB endurance racers. The 900 is sandwiched by the bigger CB1100FICB110OR and smaller CB750F.

It’s good because:

CB900s can be bought very cheap, parts are readily available, and 130mph performance isn’t to be sniffed at.

It’s bad because:

Not the strongest engine around (trouble from the strange twin camchain system and bottom end is not uncommon).

Other Alternatives:

CB750F looks similar and is tougher, if slower. GS-1000 looks better and performs just as well, but has a more dated engine.

KalGard clear Chain Kote is just like the original Chain Kote, but in a Clear formula, now with PTFE for additional wear life. An excellent lubricant designed especially for roller chains, the light, penetrating  lubricant reaches into rollers and pins, thickens right after application and will not be thrown off, even at racing speeds. It also lubes and protects O-rings, will not wash off in rain but can easily be removed with Kal-Gard contact cleaner.

MORE LUGGAGES FOR YOUR ULYSSES.

Three new Buell accessories include soft luggage designed specifically for 2006-later Buell XB12X Ulysses models. The new top- and side-case interior luggage is nylon pieces designed to fit perfectly within the cases. Each features a large front pocket with built-in storage organizer, a shoulder strap and carry handle for easy transport off the bike. The new Triple Tail Backpack is designed to fit securely over the Ulysses triple tail pad and doubles as a back­pack. Reflective trim increases night-time visibility and a rain cover are included.

The DOHC-URS engine was designed by Helmut Fath who used one to win the world sidecar 1968championship. Friedl Munch fitted the engines into Rickman frames to compete in the 500cc solo world championship in 1970. Unfortunately Munch and Fath fell out, killing the project.

SilverTrek Trailers’ all-new luxury motorcycle trailer is built with the same formula used to build $150,000 multi- car stacker trailers. Some of the most recognizable attributes of the SilverTrek are the smooth, sweeping lines of the exterior radius trims and the three- dimensional cast-aluminum SilverTrek logo plate. Every aspect of this trailer exhibits the utmost in precision craftsmanship. For the guy who enjoys the finer things in life, this is a “must add” to your arsenal of toys!

FULMER HELMET.

Fulmer Helmets’ new full-facemodel, the Snell-approved AF-SS is the result of intricate and exhaustive research and development: The AF-SS features a superior aerodynamic shape that looks aggres­sive while meeting the highest industry standards for safety. The technologically advanced AF-SS features Fulmer’s new proprietary shield system, QR2 Switch, and DRI-LEX moisture-wicking interior that keeps a rider cool and dry by wicking perspiration, moving it away from the rider’s skin and allowing it to evaporate.

Born in                                  : 1972

Current Machine              : Kawasaki

I’m really into the old stuff, and this is a beautiful thing. It’s a he honor to ride a bike with such a fantastic history. I’ve been a bike since I was three years-old. I might actually have seen this race.

The bike has a lovely feel. It’s really small although it’s a huge reach to the bars, and Mick Grant isn’t a big bloke. It feels like a modern 250. Even the brakes are OK. It’d be nice to get it onto a circuit and give it some proper well.

It doesn’t matter how much power a four stroke has, they’re not going to be as much fun as a two-stroke. When you go from 40bhp to 140bhp to nothing, in 2000rpm, it makes it really exciting to ride. And the noise – it must be the loudest bike here.

I rode an old Suzuki RG5004 at the post-TT in 2000, I loved it. I tried to buy one. And I’ve still got a BSA Lightning Clubman I Use on the road. I take my girlfriend on the back, go to the pub and then get fish and chips on the way back. Don’t need to put all your leathers on, just a jacket and helmet. It’s a nice release from the pressure of racing.

Die casting instead of gravity casting for the cast-aluminum sections of the ZX-14’s main frame have also resulted in lighter parts. The ZX-10R superbike has been completely revamped once again, with an all-new engine tuned for greater high-rpm performance without sacrificing midrange. The bike’s new ignition system is equipped with a kind of traction control, too, assisting with torque management by monitoring throttle opening, gear position and rate of rpm change, then retarding ignition timing to reduce torque when sudden unwanted rpm spikes are detected.  ZX-10R also has a

heavily revised frame and suspension, including a fully adjustable 43mm inverted fork and a new swingarm that uses pressed instead of cast beams. Rear suspension changes include dual (low- and high-speed) compression damping on the fully adjustable rear shock for better fine-tuning, a new mounting spot for the Uni­Trak linkage and a reshaped swingarm with a top-mounted brace. Wheels and brakes are all-new as well.

The bike’s 249cc parallel twin has been returned for smoother and more predictable power delivery, and Kawasaki says it offers more low- and midrange torque thanks to revisions to its dual overhead camshafts and a new two-into-one Ninja 250R exhaust system. Larger 17-inch wheels improve handling and stability, and there’s a larger 290mm front brake rotor gripped by a more powerful two- piston caliper. Like Kawasaki’s other sport models, the Ninja 2508 is fitted with petal discs for efficient heat dissipation.

Kawasaki’s already got a 2009 model in the lineup, too, the new KLX250S, which has been improved and revised for smoother power, better handling and braking, more stability and nicer looks.

What it is:

Sleeker styled version of Suzuki’s first big 16-valve plain-bearing four, the GSX1100. Unrivalled combination of power, torque, comfort and handling. An automatic choice for production and drag racers alike because the engine can be tuned and tuned.

Others in its family tree:

The 1100 was also available with small cockpit fairing, full fairing, and in Katana trim as an 1100 and a rare 1000.

It’s good because:

It’s very powerful very strong, was around for ages so parts availability is good, and is easily tuned. Lighter than some, too.

It’s bad because:

The electrics are rubbish. And it’s one of the ugliest things to roll off a production line. Ever.

Other alternatives:

Kawasaki GPz1100, if you throw away its fuel injection system. Buy a Honda CB1.100R if you want something for the track.

In 1984, features such as Elastomer rubber engine mounting and fully enclosed chain final drive were recent innovations, and the 80-cubic-inch Evolution engine (the one that was to save Harley-Davidson from extinction) had just been introduced. In the intervening years the entire Harley line has gone to belt final drive and electronic fuel injection. The Electra Glide’s fairing has been improved and updated. There’s now a full sound system. The saddlebag lids are now attached and can no longer be lost, the brakes now have four-piston rather than single-piston calipers, and fairing lowers are standard on the Ultra. And in case you feared that the rate of change had slowed in recent years, for 2007 the E-Glide was given the new Cruise Drive six- speed transmission (which debuted on other models the previous year), and the Twin Cam 88-inch engine was upgraded to 96 cubic inches. This was accomplished by leaving the bore intact, but adding almost 10mm to the stroke. For 2008 fuel capacity has grown by one gallon, and various models (including the Ultra) are available with anti- lock brakes. It just goes to show that the rate of change has actually increased in recent years.

That 96-inch motor (1,584cc) offers a bore and stroke of 95.25 x 111.25mm, figures that indicate a torquey stroker rather than a revver. Sure, it’s still air-cooled and its valves are actuated by pushrods with hydraulic lifters that never need adjustment, but power has been tweaked in unex­pected ways. Two years ago when we tested the 2006 Ultra Classic its 88-inch Twin Cam motor produced 65 horsepower at 5,700 rpm on the Borla Performance dynamometer, and 67.4 lb-ft of torque at 3,800 rpm. Now, despite gaining 8 cubic inches of displacement, horsepower has actually fallen to 62.4 at 5,200 rpm, but torque is up to 77.8 lb-ft at 3,600 rpm. That’s a whopping 15 percent boost, and anyone who rides a Harley can confirm that torque is what it’s all about. Not only that, but the Ultra’s flat torque curve delivers more than 70 lb-ft from 2,000 on up to 4,400 rpm.

Hit the starter button, and after a loud whump from the starter damper the electronic sequential port fuel injection helps the engine fire up immediately…unless you were foolish enough to forget to pack the hands-free security fob that’s part of the optional Smart Security System. It’s a pas­sive key fob that must be within several feet of the bike or nothing will happen except the turn signals will simply flash at you angrily. When the fob is more than 8 feet away, the security system arms itself and disables the ignition. When the bike is disturbed, the signals flash; a siren alarm is optional. Should you lose the fob or leave it sitting in your garage when you ride off, you can arm or disarm the system by using the turn signal controls to enter a PIN number.

Even when cold the Glide can be ridden away immedi­ately without protest or hiccup. For the 2006 model year, peak clutch lever effort was reduced by 35 percent on Big Twins, and in ‘07 touring models got a new clutch cable that resulted in a further 7 percent reduction in effort. The six- speed shifts easily, quickly and with low effort with its heel­and-toe shifter. Gone are the days when one had to pause between shifts on a Harley to allow the parts to properly align.

The Ultra is a traveling machine, which is where it excels. Vibration from the single-crankpin V-twin was tamed long ago, isolated from the rider by rubber engine mounts. The seat is one of the best I’ve ever encountered in motorcy­cling, a firm base overlaid with soft padding. Typically, I start squirming around within the first 100 miles of a ride, trying to redistribute the pressure points. However, with the Ultra took a 400-mile weekend ride and it wasn’t until late in the second day that the squirming ritual began. The seat is nar­row at the front so the rider can get the feet down at a stop, and the 30.7-inch height is reasonable. Footboards are rubber mounted so that no vibration enters there; the left one is crowded a bit by the heel-and-toe shifter. The rider sits rather upright behind a full instrument panel that includes a large speedometer and tachometer, and four smaller circular gauges that keep track of fuel supply, charging rate, oil pressure and ambient air temperature. As for entertainment, the Ultra includes a Harman/Kardon 80-watt audio system with AM/FM radio, weatherband, CB, intercom, four speakers, and there’s a power outlet for electric clothing and such. A dizzying list of audio options includes XM Radio, Bluetooth, GPS and a CD changer.

A major factor in pleasant touring is wind protection, and while that classic fairing deflects the wind it also allows a significant amount of buffeting to the rider’s helmet. You won’t be able to hear much of that wonderful audio system at speed unless you utilize helmets with speaker headsets. The Ultra Classic comes standard with a pair of lowers, leg protectors that include a small storage bin under each snap- on cover that can hold a pair of winter gloves. Each lower also incorporates a curved plastic panel that stows inside. On a cold day the rider can squat in front of the bike and rotate these panels outward on their tracks to block the wind. On warmer days they can be rotated back behind the lowers to allow for more airflow, a good thing since the larger engine now puts out more heat, especially from the rear cylinder exhaust pipe on the right. Likewise, tinted wind deflectors at the edges of the fairing can be rotated inward on warm days to direct airflow to the rider’s body. Both of these comfort items are quite effective.

What it is:

The last incarnation of the old Zl-derived engine. Hugely fast and, well, just huge. One of the earliest fuel-injected Japanese bikes. The pinnacle of big air-cooled sports bike design.

Others in its family tree:

Its roots trace back to the Zl. Original B1 model was un-faired. B2 got more torque and a cockpit fairing. The ZX model got a frame-mounted fairing, mono-shock, Star Wars styling and more power.

It’s good because:

150mph performance has never looked so cheap.

It’s bad because:

Fuel-injection gets temperamental with age (carb conversions are common). And the GPz900R is so much better.

Other alternatives:

Suzuki GSX1100EF offers the same combo of bulk and mind- bending power, but is ugly beyond belief. Honda CB1100R proddie racers are more desirable, but more expensive as a result.

Current Machine              :Suzuki GSV-R MotoGP

I started racing in ‘98 and I’ve never ridden a bike older than that until today, but I really like old cars and getting the opportunity to ride the actual bike that Barry won his first 500 GP on is a real honor. I went to Barry’s house in Queensland. He had lots of his old race bikes there; it was fantastic. It’s really interesting to see how the technology has moved on.

I met Barry in ‘99 and he really helped my career in 2000 and 2001. I’m really pleased that I got the offer to ride his bike; there was no way that I was going to refuse.

There are no brakes – I bet they were state of the art then – and there’s a lot of flex in the chassis. It goes from nothing to lots of power to nothing, I bet they were bloody hard to race. It’s my first time with a right foot shift and I usually ride with a road pattern gear shift. In one corner I changed up a gear when I wanted to brake. It got a bit interesting.

I have ridden two-strokes. I raced Suzuki RGV250s in 1998, but I didn’t expect this bike to be as fast as it is. The noise is very cool. Real two-stroke race bike noise. Our bikes are loud, but this is something else.

The T450 is a stylishly designed trolley- type travel bag, equipped with wheels and an ergonomic telescopic handle for convenient walkabout use when off the bike. This new soft bag is made of a tough Cordura textile and features three separate storage compartments—a medium-sized outer one, a padded sleeve to fit a 15-inch laptop and a main storage section that’s expandable enough to hold a couple of helmets. It also has a side-mounted water bottle compartment (bottle not included) that’s a lot more useful than it appears on paper. The top of the bag is trimmed with silver reflective piping, and the supplied rain cover slips over the entire bag in a few simple seconds.

What really works for me with the T450, though, is how easily it clicks directly onto a Givi Monolock or Monokey mounting bracket. There’s a small plate located on the bottom of the bag secured by two Phillips- head screws—loosen them and slide the plate up for Monolock, down for Monokey and you’re good to go—with one key and the push of a button. Mounting brackets are sold separately if you ‘don’t already have one.

I don’t see the T450 Trolley Bag so much as a replacement or alternative for hard-shell top boxes, but more as a brilliant addition and complement to a box. Although the T450 locks securely to the mounting bracket, everything inside is vulnerable as only zippers protect my stuff from the rest of the world. Point is I might feel the need to take the bag along with me when off the bike.